1995 The Ojai Vineyard Syrah, Ventura County About $14

This is a benchmark Syrah from Adam Tolmach, one of the early California masters of Rho^ne varietals. It’s soft and lush with a scent of cassis and dark plums. Because of its bright, concentrated fruit, it drinks well with just about anything, especially roast or grilled chicken or a beautiful steak or chop. It can hold its own against bold flavors, too. I might serve it with a garlicky pork roast or a mess of grilled vegetables and a Catalan romesco sauce or a Provencal aioli.