IN THE MOOD

Don’t call it a grilled ham and cheese--the Cuban sandwich also includes roast pork and pickles, and the loaf of Cuban bread is grilled in a special press to make it crunchy. The midnight (media noche) sandwich is much the same but on a sweeter bread.

El Cochinito: This version, on fresh Cuban bread, includes boiled ham, sweet cheese, roasted pork (marinated in lime, garlic and onion), pickles and mustard. Along with your sandwich, get a milkshake made from the pink tropical fruit mamey. (Cubano sandwich, $4.50; mamey milkshake, $3.) El Cochinito, 3508 Sunset Blvd., L.A., (323) 668-0737.

Porto’s Bakery: The pork is roasted for at least five hours, the Cuban bread is baked fresh several times a day and the Swiss cheese is creamy with just enough bite; no surprise that there’s always a line for the sandwiches here. To go with yours, get a papa rellena, a stuffed meat and potato ball. (Cuban sandwich, $2.99; papa rellena, 75 cents.) Porto’s Bakery, 315 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 956-5996.

Cafe Tropical: This quaint cafe offers a sandwich on homemade Cuban bread with roasted pork marinated with spices and lemon. Be sure to have a rich Cuban caffe latte with it. (Cuban sandwich, $3.99; Cuban caffe latte $1.75 to $2.75.) Cafe Tropical, 2900 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 661-8391.

Xiomara: The Cuban sandwich at this elegant spot is big, slightly crisp and dripping with flavor, made with pork marinated with lime and orange juices. It’s served cut in half, with the cheese oozing over the sides, with a side of French fries and “mojo ketchup,” dosed with herbs, spices, lime juice and olive oil. (Classic Cuban sandwich, $11.) Xiomara, 69 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, (626) 796-2520.

Habana: This cool, trendy spot features a media noche sandwich of ham, pork, pickles, onions, mustard and Swiss cheese on a grilled French roll. It comes with a large order of thin, crisp fries. (Media noche, $6.95.) Habana, the Lab/Anti-Mall, 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 556-0176.

Ciudad: Here the Cuban sandwich shows up at lunch or happy hour. It’s made with the traditional fixings along with a little homemade garlic mayonnaise, accompanied by plenty of cumin-dusted French fries. (El Cubano, $7.75.) Ciudad, Union Bank Plaza, 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown L.A., (213) 486-5171.

Jessica Strand