1998 Leroy Bourgogne rouge

Lalou Bize-Leroy, one of the most famous wine producers in the world, has an entry-level Bourgogne rouge that costs in the neighborhood of $22. Traditionally the name Leroy is synonymous with glorious Burgundies, full of character and charisma, at prices only the very rich or the very obsessed can countenance. That’s why her 1998 Leroy Bourgogne rouge is such a phenomenal find. Earthy yet graceful, tasting of plums and blackberries, it is a lovely and very affordable introduction to Burgundian-style Pinot Noir. It’s also tremendously food-friendly. It loves a good daube or stew, will flatter a roasted bird and goes down all too easily with grilled meats and chops.

S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: About $22

Style: Earthy and food-friendly

Food it goes with: Everything from slow-roasted salmon to roast chicken and Cornish game hen, steak frites and slow-simmered stews.

Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Du Vin Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; John & Pete’s Fine Wines in West Hollywood, (310) 657-3080; and Wally’s in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606