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This must be Eagle Rock

Eagle Rock, buttressed by Glendale to the west and Pasadena to the east, is named after the massive 50-foot-tall boulder that greets those entering from the 134 Freeway. When the sun is positioned just so, both the rock, formerly known as La Piedra Gorda, and its shadow are said to resemble the iconic bird. For locals, it’s a sight that tells them they’re home.

With its “small town within a big city” feel, Eagle Rock has been viewed as much more low-key than its northeast Los Angeles cousins Silver Lake, Los Feliz and Echo Park. “It’s the place where hipsters go to die or raise kids — which some people consider the same thing,” filmmaker and actor Jay Duplass told The Times when describing the quaint and hilly neighborhood, the setting of his 2015 HBO dramedy series “Togetherness.”

Get to know Los Angeles through the places that bring it to life. From restaurants to shops to outdoor spaces, here’s what to discover now.

Home to liberal arts school Occidental College (which counts former President Obama as a past student), Eagle Rock has just three major thoroughfares: Eagle Rock, Colorado and York boulevards. But packed within the community are vibrant indie spaces, from used bookshop READ Books to custom sneaker studio Major Wavez Lab to the terrific Ethiopian restaurant Aunt Yvette’s Kitchen. The neighborhood has long drawn in creatives — Ben Affleck, an Oxy alum, lived in a Tudor-style home on Hill Drive with Matt Damon while they co-wrote the script for “Good Will Hunting.”

Although Eagle Rock is considered to be “ethnically diverse” with sizable Asian (23.9%), white (29.8%) and Latino (40.3%) populations, the area is just 1.9% Black, no doubt due in part to neighboring towns like South Pasadena and Glendale having reputations as sundown towns until the late 1990s.

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Like with much of L.A., the landscape of Eagle Rock is ever-changing. Pinky, the paper-mache bird that sat atop the infamous “Pillarhenge,” vanished without a trace. (Being built in its place is a mixed-use structure that looks like a boat.) The historic Eagle Theatre was shuttered in 2001 and was replaced by the new Vidiots location, a cultural institution and one of the last standing video rental stores that boasts its own 271-seat theater. And initiatives are underway to make Eagle Rock Boulevard more walkable, including curb extensions, a parking-protected bike lane and landscape medians to prevent unsafe U-turns.

Any great day trip itinerary would balance a tasting tour of the many delicious restaurants with visits to the neighborhood’s singular arts and cultural institutions. So on your next drive down the 134 Freeway, why not follow the big golden bird and explore the neighborhood’s charms? This must be Eagle Rock.

What's included in this guide

Anyone who’s lived in a major metropolis can tell you that neighborhoods are a tricky thing. They’re eternally malleable and evoke sociological questions around how we place our homes, our neighbors and our communities within a wider tapestry. In the name of neighborly generosity, we included gems that may linger outside of technical parameters. Instead of leaning into stark definitions, we hope to celebrate all of the places that make us love where we live.

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Vegetable platter at Aunt Yvette's Kitchen.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Indulge your senses at Aunt Yvette's Kitchen

Eagle Rock African restaurant
Despite the fact that an entire corridor in Mid-City brims with Ethiopian restaurants, no two L.A. establishments are the same. You can’t interchange Lalibela’s flavorful veggie utopia with Messob’s here’s-something-for-everyone special combination platter. And Merkato’s visibility (thanks in part to its striking primary colored signage and frequent name-drops in Issa Rae’s “Insecure”) might be what lures you in, but its wide selection of tibs is what’ll turn you into a repeat customer.

Aunt Yvette’s Kitchen, situated inside an Eagle Rock strip mall, combines the best parts of all of these restaurants while bringing its own distinctive kick — the vegan platter offers a broad flavor palette with added hints of sweetness alongside the spice. Pescaterian? The salmon tibs are terrific as an add-on or on their own. Just be sure to save room for the basque cheesecake made with burnt caramel sauce, which is nothing short of divine.

For those looking to impress, the intimate and dark but elegantly-decorated space is perfect for date night. The restaurant is open for dinner four nights a week (Wednesday through Saturday) and from noon until 5 p.m. on Sundays.
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Lani Ca's buttons at Center for the Arts Eagle Rock's Zine Fest.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Jumpstart your creativity at Center for the Arts Eagle Rock

Eagle Rock Cultural Center
Housed in a former Carnegie library constructed in 1914, the Center for the Arts Eagle Rock is located near the intersection of the two most busy streets in neighborhood — quite fitting as the nonprofit organization was originally established to be a “hub of cultural exchange and a cultural corridor.”

Since 1998, the center has provided multidisciplinary arts programming for Angelenos of all generations, hosting exhibitions and monthly workshops including watercolor, ink and acrylic painting, basket weaving, zine-making, linocut printing and fabric collage, among others. Executive director Melinda Ann Farrell said the employees of the center are all artists, curators and programmers “who bring their unique backgrounds, identities and skills to contribute creative energy and cultural richness to the organization.”

I took a two-hour workshop led by teaching artist J.J. Jorgenson, who taught us different brush and stroke practices and how to mix water and paint to create various levels of opacity on the page. We painted nature-inspired abstract scenes from memory using gradients, negative space and drop color techniques.

Besides myself, the class was attended by two women in their late 70s, who’d been coming to the center for years but were relatively new to watercolor. “My philosophy in life is, ‘If you don’t think you can do it, try it anyway,’ ” said participant Nancy Grubb, 77.
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Patron Danny Simmons working at Creature's Plants and Coffee.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Pair your matcha with a succulent at Creature's Plants and Coffee

Eagle Rock Plant Shop
The newly-opened coffee shop-cum-arboretum Creature’s was created to provide a place where one could “be a creature amongst other creatures.” To that effect, the establishment filled with native plants and succulents hosts events that promote compassion for all — there’s been a free clothing swap, local makers fairs, a nature sketching gathering and a presentation in tandem with Citizens for Los Angeles Wildlife (CLAW) about peacefully coexisting with L.A.’s native animals

Owned by Hope Creature, the business sells plants and garden supplies in one building and organic drinks and pastries in another. A 50-foot greenhouse shelters indoor tropicals, organic edibles, drought-tolerant native plants and small potted succulents, which go for less than $2. The outdoor seating area is outfitted with plants available for purchase.

“A lot went into making this space architecturally stunning as well with every design detail considered,” Creature says. “The space also serves as a platform for our ongoing community programming which showcases what the space is all about — bringing people together to explore, learn and connect.”

The queer-owned and run cafe offers standard coffee fare including matcha, espresso, cortado, cold brew and drip options from local roaster Unity, as well as a selection of teas and rotating pastries. Open daily from 7:30 a.m. until 5 p.m., the shop’s enclosed outdoor patio (buttressed on either side by the cafe/general store and greenhouse) offers a peaceful reprieve from the relative hustle-and-bustle of Eagle Rock Boulevard.
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Specialty dish Bahn mi dip at Chateau Lemongrass.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Delight in a bahn mi pho dip at Chateau Lemongrass

Eagle Rock Pho / Noodle House Restaurant
This casual Vietnamese restaurant, where the friendly staff often remember patrons by face if not by name, has one of the best bahn mi pho dips in town. The combination is comprised of bahn mi (topped with onion, cilantro, basil, sriracha, hoisin sauce and either brisket or tofu) and a small portion of pho. When the former dunks into the latter, the fluffy yet crispy baked baguette soaks up the flavorful broth just so.

The sleek yet laid-back Chateau Lemongrass has been serving the local community since 2007. Other highly-rated dishes include the filet mignon shaken beef, pork chop, crispy fish filet, garlic noodles, pho tacos, Asian pear salad and filet mignon pho. Whatever you get, be sure to pair it with either a Thai tea or a passion fruit green tea, which comes with an optional topping of lychee jelly.
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Read Books Co-owner Deborah Kaplan holding a selection from the stacks at READ Books.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Browse the overflowing shelves at READ Books

Eagle Rock Book Store
An authentic mom-and-pop shop, this charming, intimate bookstore is owned and operated by Debbie and Jeremy Kaplan, whose origin story is a match made in bookseller heaven.

The couple met in 1994 while working at Book Soup and “bonded over literature and leftover chorizo con huevos,” Jeremy says. They have now been married for 27 years and share a singular email, cell phone and nearly a birthday, having been born just a day apart.

The Kaplans opened READ Books about 18 years ago in 2007 on the precipice of the economic depression. “Half the people we knew told us that northeast Los Angeles desperately needed a bookstore,” Jeremy says. “The other half said, ‘Bookstore? Don’t you want to make money?’ “

At this point the couple can’t remember whether Debbie or their eldest son Donald should be credited with the idea of opening a bookstore, or its eventual name (which can be interpreted as either the present or past tense of “read.”) “Our origin story remains a matter of contention,” Jeremy says.

The store, located some two miles from their home, features tall bookshelves stuffed to the brim with books of all genres, as well as decomposition books and more recently vinyl records from Donald’s collection. READ also hosts a book club that’s more than 16 years strong. My recent scores include nostalgia-inducing finds like vintage Barbie coloring books from the ’90s, a fashion photo book I was obsessed with in the early ’10s and a pristine vinyl recording of Aaliyah’s self-titled album.

“We’re a reader’s bookstore,” Jeremy says. “We are less interested in presentation and advertising and more interested in stacking our shelves with excellent literature. ... It’s satisfying to be able to render a service that has the potential to improve another human’s life.”
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Co-owners Delia and Adolfo Flores outside of their restaurant, Delia's.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Refuel with a breakfast burrito or two from Delia's

Eagle Rock Mexican Cuisine
The understated Delia’s restaurant, located on a quiet stretch of York Boulevard across the road from water supplier Sparkletts’ bottling plant, is within walking distance of Occidental College, making it a popular haunt among budget-conscious college students. Most entrees cost less than $10 and sides (including french toast, hash browns, fries and rice and beans) go for under $5. I ordered a chicken burrito which was made with diced onion, crispy chicken, rice, beans and cilantro. Three bites in, I considered ordering a second one for the road.

A star of the comforting hideaway is breakfast, served all day — chilaquiles, huevos and chorizo breakfast burritos reliably hit the spot at any hour. A juicer behind the register attests to the freshness of the OJ, which is served alongside horchata, jamica and fountain drinks.

Painted bright orange with traditional Mexican tiles adorning the counters and nearby walls, Delia’s has been beckoning hungry customers since Delia and Adolfo Flores opened the restaurant for business in 2002. Just be sure to bring your wallet. The restaurant is cash-only, but keeps an ATM beside the cash wrap.
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Major Wavez Lab in Eagle Rock.
(Sonaiya Kelley / Los Angeles Times)

Create custom drip at Major Wavez Lab

Eagle Rock Shoe Store
Ruben Barraza’s Major Wavez Lab, a sneakerhead wonderland offering five-hour custom shoe workshops, was born out of a passion for art and sneakers.

“We offer a class similar to Build-a-Bear, but for sneakers,” said Barraza. “I wanted to create a place where you can make your own one-of-one custom and have an experience at the same time.”

The Lab, which has been in business for three years, now has three locations: in addition to L.A., the brand has physical storefronts at the Miami Wynwood and Resorts World Las Vegas. The L.A. outpost is sponsored by Nesquik which means you’re free to enjoy all the flavored milk one’s heart desires “as long as you’re not lactose intolerant,” said Darius, one of two instructors, “because this is a small enclosed space.”

The day begins with each student choosing fabrics and creating patterns by tracing along their chosen shoes (there’s an option to bring your own sneakers to customize or buy a pair of white Converse or Nikes in store). Next comes cutting, glueing and painting followed by sewing and add-ons. Finally, the shoes are laced up and ready to be broadcasted via Instagram Live to the brand’s 500,000-member online community where viewers choose a most-loved design from each class’ cohort.

Barraza started the company in L.A. with a team of two: Rosey Flores and Jonathan DeSantos. The two still lead classes, with Flores doing the stitching for students on one of two large cobbler sewing machines (a basic version is available for sale for $300).

In addition to the custom workshops, Major Wavez Lab also helps with custom projects for sneaker companies and brands alongside famous fans like rappers Blueface and Lil Mosey, actor Hilary Duff and boxing star Floyd Mayweather Jr. “Most of the clients we have are a wide mix of either sneakerheads or someone who just wants to come in and create something unique,” said Barraza.
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A view of Max City BBQ's meal platter.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Load up on meats and sides at Max City BBQ

Eagle Rock Barbecue Restaurant
After spending much of my life on the East Coast, one of the hardest things to adjust to about life in L.A. has been the dearth of tasty Black diasporic cuisines: namely soul food, Caribbean food and barbecue (trust me, I’ve tried). But Max City BBQ is the rare L.A. barbecue restaurant where the sides are as flavorful and consistently good as the meats, which is probably why Jason Segel and Kevin Bacon count themselves as regulars.

Owned by Jason McDonald and Melanie Blair, the bar and restaurant specializes in slow-cooked, Southern style barbecue dishes and small plates including hush puppies, Texas toast grilled cheese and slow-smoked brisket or pulled pork sliders. Located on a quiet corner of Eagle Rock Boulevard, Max City has been serving the community since 2014 after starting out as a catering business. “We really like to feed people,” Blair says. “It started with our friends and family and grew to the larger community. We also wanted to create a space where the whole neighborhood feels welcome.”

Everything is made in-house from the rubs that go on the meats to the barbecue sauce. Meats (served a la carte) range from brisket, baby back ribs, pulled pork, jalapeno bacon cheddar smoked links or chicken. Sides include coleslaw, baked beans, five-cheese mac ‘n’ cheese, collard greens, cornbread muffins and potato, mixed green or cucumber salad.

I ordered a pulled pork sandwich, which was served with spicy and mild BBQ sauces on the side. While mac ‘n’ cheese can vary by region and taste, I found Max City’s simple offering to be fluffy and cheesy with the right amount of clumpy texture (mac ‘n’ cheese should stick together or else it’s just cheesy pasta, in my humble opinion). If you like a more substantial serving of greens, the restaurant also offers salads topped with BBQ chicken, pulled pork or smoked link and brisket drizzled with either buttermilk ranch dressing or red wine vinaigrette.
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Walt's Bar in Eagle Rock is popular neighborhood arcade bar in a former plumber's shop.
(Bethany Mollenkof / For The Times)

Enjoy pints and pinball at Walt's Bar

Eagle Rock Arcade bar
Walt’s is the place for pinball champions and Occidental College students (and their families) alike: This all-pinball hang in a former plumber shop has a local-soda-fountain vibe.

Eight brew taps feature local breweries, and the food menu offers a formidable, plump and tasty hot dog, croque-monsieurs, croque-madames and other food specials with ingredients from small, local purveyors.

During the week, Walt’s hosts crazy Wednesday night pinball tournaments starting at 8 p.m., where the buy-in is just $5 per person. Set under its retro, neon plumber facade is plenty of outdoor seating, so you can take in the sun during the day and make your way back inside for a taste of Eagle Rock nightlife after dark.
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Taco sampler at CaCao Mexicatessen.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Catch the sunset at Cacao Mexicatessen

Eagle Rock Mexican Cuisine
The taqueria and cantina, run by the Eagle Rock-raised Lujan family, offers a gorgeous view of Glenoaks Canyon. Grab a seat on the bar-style outdoor patio and catch the sunset over the hills while enjoying the restaurant’s fresh ceviche appetizer (three small mounds of fish, onions, avocado and cucumber that is as light as it is healthy).

Named after the indigenous Mexican product, Cacao makes it a point to champion not only dishes that are rich in tradition, but also local businesses. Its blue corn tortillas are made locally in Boyle Heights and its flour tortillas were made in East Los Angeles. There’s also an option to upgrade to a thinner, smoky-flavored Sonoran-style flour tortilla for an extra $1.

Open since 2009, the restaurant offers unique and unexpected street taco fillings including two kinds of duck, Korean-style short rib and bone marrow alongside more familiar options like cauliflower, potato and birria. Whatever you get, be sure to pair it with a refreshing pepina (cucumber melon) agua fresca which is served with a fresh slice of cucumber on top.
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Eagle Rock, CA, Monday, May 22, 2023 - Original theater seats have been restored as remodeling continues on the Eagle Theater before it's planned reopening in June. (Robert Gauthier/Los Angeles Times)
(Robert Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Indulge in cinematic nostalgia at Vidiots

Eagle Rock Movie Theater
Originally established in 1985 in Santa Monica by Patty Polinger and Cathy Tauber, Vidiots’ new digs were designed with care — truly, there’s not a bad seat in the house — and with community in mind.

Showing films daily on 35mm and digital — in its newly renovated state-of-the-art 271-seat Eagle Theatre — the nonprofit draws filmmakers and locals with its slate of genre-spanning crowd-pleasers and repertory deep cuts (Tollywood action epic “RRR,” baseball classic “A League of Their Own” and Walter Hill’s rock opera “Streets of Fire” are a small sampling).

Catch up over beer and wine in the unpretentious lobby bar and grab hot dogs, ice cream sammies and actually good popcorn from concessions. Then wander past the intimate MUBI microcinema and lose yourself in Vidiots’ flagship video store (one of L.A.’s very last), where hand-drawn placards lovingly guide you through a catalog of 60,000 DVDs, Blu-rays and rare VHS tapes.
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Hot stone treatment at Reboot Organic Spa and Massage.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Treat yourself to full-body relief at Reboot Organic Spa and Massage

Eagle Rock Massage parlor
This unassuming massage parlor located on Eagle Rock Boulevard offers a full-body massage that — no matter your starting point — is worth the drive.

Although it seemed relatively busy when I got there, my walk-in appointment was accepted and I was quickly led to one of four massage rooms, each bisected by floor-length opaque brown curtains.

At the outset, clients are presented with a diagram of the human body and asked to circle the parts that need the most attention. After beginning with a foot massage, my therapist Vivian attacked my arms and shoulders, brutalizing them to the dulcet tones of a piano lullaby, while applying firm pressure with her fingers, forearms and elbows (who knew a forearm to the thigh could be so... ticklish?)

While I am no stranger to a deep tissue massage (other options offered were combination, Swedish, Thai, office syndrome and prenatal), this one was easily the most comprehensive I’ve ever had. By the end of my 60-minute session, I became aware of several new places where I hold tension and have tight muscles including my hands and the nape of my neck.

After having both the front and back of my body thoroughly worked on, Vivian had me sit upright and massaged my shoulders even more, pushing down on them with her forearms and ironing out the last kinks. By the end of the session, I left feeling relaxed and mildly sore, which I always take as a sign of a job well done.
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A view of Seafood City Supermarket.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Experience 'true Filipino goodness' at Seafood City

Eagle Rock Grocery Store
The Filipino supermarket Seafood City is essentially the Pinoy H-Mart.

The 21,000-square foot supermarket, located in Eagle Rock Plaza (referred to as the “Mall of Manila” in its heyday), promises “true Filipino goodness” in all of its different flavors.

The grocery chain, which has grown to nearly 40 locations across North America, was founded by Carlos Go in San Diego in 1989. Aside from Pan-Asian grocery staples, the supermarket serves hot food from windows called Grill City (Filipino barbecue and street food) and Crispy Town (think lechon, bagnet, chicharon, fried fish and other meats) as well as imported beauty products, potted plants and a large fresh fish selection befitting its name.

According to the business’ website, Seafood City was created to combat homesickness for first- and second-generation Filipino Americans. And if you happen to fall outside the vicinity of the chain’s 16 SoCal locations, fear not: its website offers online shipping anywhere within the U.S.
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Cortado on the porch at Found Coffee.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Support homegrown California roasters at Found Coffee

Eagle Rock Cafe
Found Coffee makes it a point to feature other homegrown L.A. businesses in its offerings — the pioneering specialty coffee shop serves Demitasse, Stereoscope and Prospect coffee roasts, alongside East L.A.’s Bakers Kneaded baked goods and California tea brands Tahmina, Three Gems and T-WE artisanal loose-leaf teas and matcha.

“We try to primarily have merchandise and goods from AAPI and women of color-owned small businesses on our shelves,” says owner Annie Choi, a former reality TV video editor and event planner who previously managed Demitasse’s Santa Monica location.

The shop has been serving the community for nearly 10 years. Its spare aesthetic is offset by a backwall decorated with more than a dozen vintage telephones. Another wall features framed black and white photographs of local hallmarks including Walt’s, pizzeria Casa Bianca and the now-shuttered Eagle Theatre (which was eventually replaced by the new Vidiots location).

“A coffee shop is a place filled with stories: the baristas’ and customers’ personal life stories, the spirit of the neighborhood the coffee shop is located in and even down to the coffee’s journey into the customer’s hands itself,” Choi says. “And in such a lonely place that Los Angeles can sometimes be, stories amongst community is essential.”
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Gin martini with lemon at Capri Club.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Grab a frozen negroni at the retro-cool Capri Club

Eagle Rock Italian Cocktails $$
When Robert Fleming reopened an almost 60-year-old space in Eagle Rock that housed the former Italian restaurant Capri, he launched one of L.A.’s coolest destination bars.

The broadly Italian drink menu leans to spritzes and other lighter cocktails appropriate for aperitivo; Francesco Allegro, a pasta whiz at Rossoblu, consulted on a menu of nibbles that includes fried pasta.

But the contrasts of mood within the bar’s microcosms accounts for much of its magnetism. On warm afternoons and evenings, the sidewalk is happy mayhem; when the patio misting system goes full blast, the world beyond it becomes a bright, watery blur.

Inside, people line up to order martinis and mezcal sours directly from bartenders, while a lucky handful settle into four dimly lit leather booths along walls lined with retro wood paneling. The rest of us will gladly take the first seat we can grab.
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Omakase sashimi at ikigai.
(Jess Stephens / For The Times)

Get your sushi fix at Ikigai

Eagle Rock Japanese $$
A sushi bar and shokudo, or casual Japanese restaurant, opened about a year ago in Eagle Rock with a range of omakase, lunch specials and home-style comforts such as gyoza and udon soup.

In addition to nigiri and sashimi, Ikigai — from husband-and-wife team Peter and Sooji Park — serves some of the signature rolls offered at their previous restaurant in Alaska, including the Alaska Delight, which tops a salmon, cucumber and avocado roll with scallops, mayonnaise and tobiko. Other specialties include an omakase available in eight, 10 or 12 pieces; reasonably priced sushi lunch combinations; donkatsu; and udon.

“We’re very much sushi-forward and are trying to provide as many options as many accommodations, and just be the place to go,” says the restaurateurs’ son, Matthew Park, who helps manage Ikigai. “The big recurring theme among our guests has been that people in the Eagle Rock community have been looking for a new sushi option, so our hope is to be able to fill that gap.”
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