PUMPKINS

For most of us, fresh pumpkins are little more than the stuff jack-o’-lanterns are made of. However, the Connecticut field pumpkin--as well as the Big Max and Lady Godiva varieties of this member of the squash family--can wear many other faces.

Today’s pumpkins run the full gamut--from minis weighing only a few ounces to the gigantic Big Max that can tip the scale at anywhere from 50 to 125 pounds. Between these extremes are the more traditional-looking sugar and Connecticut field pumpkins (called by a variety of names by different seed companies), along with the more unusual yellow-hued Lady Godiva and white varieties.

According to Jan DeLyser, executive vice president of the Fresh Produce Council, a locally based trade group, this year’s pumpkins “may be a little higher priced than usual. The warm weather that hit California in early October brought the crop on too fast, and some of the pumpkins (about 25%)

are not expected to last until Halloween. While regular-sized pumpkins may become scarce as Halloween approaches, there should be an ample supply of mini-pumpkins.”

For most of us, the jack-o’-lanterns we carve for that holiday are the sole way we use fresh pumpkins. However, this member of the squash family can wear many other faces. Scoop out the seeds and stringy portion and mini pumpkins become individual soup bowls. Larger pumpkins may double as

tureens for soups or become the cooking vessel for a stew. Chunks of pumpkin can enhance a soup or be cooked to make a spicy butter to spread on cinnamon bread or pancakes.

Most sources we checked claim smaller pumpkins provide the best-tasting pulp, but Linda Ayers of Ayers Pumpkin Patch in Santa Paula says that the meat of Big Max pumpkins also has a good flavor.

She believes most people choose smaller pumpkins because they can’t use the huge amount of pulp larger ones yield. Prompted by Ayers’ comments on the sweetness of white-pumpkin meat, The Times Test Kitchen taste-tested pumpkins with white and orange rinds. Although flavors were very similar, meat from the white variety was more orange in color, sweeter in flavor and smoother in texture.

Pumpkins, probably native to Central America, were already being widely grown by North American Indians when the first European colonists arrived. Settlers learned from the Indians to boil and bake pumpkin, as well as how to dry and grind it into meal for breads and puddings.

According to “The Women’s Day Encyclopedia of Cookery” (Fawcett Publications: 1966, 1967), “The first New England pumpkin pie was made by cutting a slice from the top of the pumpkin, taking out the seeds and filling the cavity with milk and spices. Maple syrup or some natural sweetener was added and the whole was baked.”

The flaky-crusted pies that have become a staple of our modern Thanksgiving feast developed later, as did canned pumpkin, now so readily available and convenient that most cooks opt to use it rather than making puree from an actual pumpkin.

Basic directions for cooking pumpkin and roasting the seeds are included along with today’s recipes. Fresh or canned pumpkin may be used where pureed pumpkin is listed as an ingredient.

Stain glass by Envel Design Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane

BASIC PUMPKIN PREPARATION:

To boil: Halve pumpkin, remove seeds and stringy portion. Cut pumpkin into small pieces, then peel. Cook, covered, in small amount of boiling, salted water 25 to 30 minutes or until tender. Drain and mash or force through food mill. Place pumpkin in strainer and let drain 30 minutes to remove excess liquid.

To steam: Halve pumpkin, remove seeds and stringy portion. Cut into small pieces and peel. Place in vegetable steamer, large strainer or colander. Place over boiling water, cover tightly and steam 50 minutes or until until tender. Mash or force through food mill.

To bake: Halve pumpkin, remove seeds and stringy portion. Cut into 2-inch pieces and peel. Place in shallow baking dish and brush generously with melted butter or margarine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees 45 minutes or until tender, brushing several times with melted butter.

ARGENTINE STEW IN PUMPKIN SHELL

2 pounds beef stew meat, cut in 1 1/2-inch cubes

1 large onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons oil

2 large tomatoes, chopped

1 large green pepper, chopped

Salt, pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

3 white potatoes, peeled and diced

3 sweet potatoes, peeled and diced

2 cups beef broth

1 medium pumpkin (about 6 pounds)

Butter or margarine, melted

1/4 cup dry Sherry

1 (1-pound) can whole kernel corn, drained

Chopped parsley

Trim any excess fat from beef and saute with onion and garlic in oil until meat is browned. Add tomatoes, green pepper, 1 tablespoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, sugar, white potatoes, sweet potatoes and broth. Cover and simmer 1 1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, cut top off pumpkin. Scoop out seeds and stringy membrane. Brush inside of pumpkin with melted butter and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Stir Sherry and corn into stew and bring to boil. Spoon stew into pumpkin shell, reserving any excess to reheat later and replenish pumpkin shell. Replace pumpkin top.

Place filled pumpkin in shallow pan and bake at 325 degrees 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until pumpkin meat is tender. Garnish with chopped parsley. Place pumpkin on serving plate and ladle out stew, scooping out some pumpkin with each serving. Replenish with any remaining stew. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

PUMPKIN SOUP

1 small onion, cut julienne

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons oil

8 cups chicken broth

2 medium tomatoes, diced

3 cups cubed pumpkin

1 serrano chile, seeded and minced

2 cups diced cooked chicken

Salt

White pepper

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

Mini pumpkins, optional

Avocado slices

Cilanto sprigs

Saute onion and garlic in oil until tender. Add chicken broth, tomatoes, pumpkin and chile. Simmer until pumpkin is tender, about 30 minutes. Add chicken. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in minced cilantro. Heat through.

Cut tops off mini pumpkins and scoop out seeds and stringy membrane. About 10 minutes before serving, fill pumpkins with boiling water. Drain off water and ladle soup into pumpkin bowls. Garnish with avocado slices and cilanto sprigs. Keep remaining soup hot and replenish bowls as needed. Makes about 10 cups soup.

PUMPKIN FONDUE

3 cups milk

1 (6-ounce) package vanilla pudding-and-pie-filling mix

1 (16-ounce) can pumpkin or 1 3/4 cups pureed pumpkin

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, softened

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

2 tablespoons orange liqueur

Gingerbread

Pound cake

Assorted fruit

Whisk milk and pudding mix together in saucepan until smooth. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until mixture comes to full boil. Stir in pumpkin, cream cheese and sugar. Simmer until heated through.

Add butter, lemon peel and liqueur. Stir until butter melts. Pour into fondue pot and serve with gingerbread and pound cake squares and fruit. Makes 8 servings.

PUMPKIN-NUT PANCAKES

2 1/2 cups cake flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 eggs

2 cups milk

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup pureed pumpkin

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup chopped pecans

Butter or margarine

Syrup

Combine flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg in large bowl. Set aside.

Lightly beat eggs in medium bowl. Add milk, oil, pumpkin and vanilla, blending well. Combine with dry ingredients, mixing well.

Preheat griddle until water drop dances when dropped on surface. Using about 1/4 cup per pancake, pour batter onto griddle. Sprinkle with few pecans. Cook until bubbles form and begin to break on top surface and edges begin to appear dry. Turn and cook until browned on second side. Serve with butter and syrup. Makes about 17 pancakes.

PUMPKIN MUFFINS

2 cups sifted flour

3 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup raisins

1 egg, beaten

3/4 cup milk

3/4 cup pureed pumpkin

1/4 cup molasses

1/3 cup oil

Brown Butter Glaze

Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and allspice. Stir in brown sugar, granulated sugar and raisins.

Combine egg, milk, pumpkin, molasses and oil. Add to dry ingredients and stir just until moistened. Fill greased muffin pans 2/3 full. Bake at 400 degrees 15 to 20 minutes. Spoon Brown Butter Glaze over muffins while still warm. Makes about 2 dozen muffins.

Brown Butter Glaze

6 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 1/2 cups powdered sugar, sifted

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

4 to 6 tablespoons whipping cream

Heat butter in saucepan, stirring until browned but not burned. Stir in sugar. Blend in vanilla and enough cream to make glaze.

PUMPKIN BUTTER

8 cups cubed pumpkin

1 quart apple cider

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Cook pumpkin in cider until tender, about 1 hour. Press through sieve or puree in food processor or blender.

Cook pulp until thick enough to mound on spoon. Add sugar, cinnamon, ginger, allspice and lemon juice. Cook slowly, stirring frequently, until thick, about 1 hour. Makes 1 quart.

Note: Serve on cinnamon raisin bread, pumpkin waffles or as topping for ice cream.

ROASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS

2 cups pumpkin seeds

1 1/2 tablespoons oil

1 teaspoon salt

Wash pumpkin seeds and drain on paper towels. Spread on wax paper and allow to dry at least 24 hours.

Toss seeds with oil. Sprinkle with salt and toss again. Spread on jellyroll pan and bake at 250 degrees 30 to 40 minutes or until dry and crisp, but not brown. Shake pan frequently while baking. Cool completely. Store in tightly covered container. Makes 2 cups.

Variation: For saltier flavor--after washing seeds, blanch in boiling salted water before drying.